This Geeetech I3 pro B 3D printer is designed and manufactured by Shenzhen Getech Co., Ltd based on Geeetech I3 pro, except its simple assembly, easy debugging and more stable performance, compared with the I3 pro, I3 pro B features newly added potential for 3D prints—support 5 types of filament: ABS, PLA, Wood, Nylon, flexible PLA and filament, create flexible hinges, joints, shaped parts; enable you to get the most out of your 3D Printer.
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6Install the drivers and software
- 6.4Leveling The Print Bed
1.Re-designed barrel of extruder to support multiple filaments: ABS/PLA/Flexible PLA/WOOD, making 3D printing more flexible.
2. Further simplified structure means fast assembly and easy adjustment, which saves you both time and energy as well as speeds up the molding of your innovative products and ideas. It usually takes up to 3 days for a DIYer to assemble the previous I3, not to mention the post-adjustment and debugging work. As to this I3 of Acrylic Frame, however, you can save 70% of time.
Page 1 Assemble manual of Geeetech acrylic Prusa I3.; Page 2 Prologue acrylic Prusa I3. We have Note: This manual only applies to the 5-mm another one that is 8-mm. As picture is much more helpful than words in assembly manual, so I use plenty of pictures and less word. Page 1 Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro W 3D Printer Assembly Manual.; Page 2 GEEETECH SUPPROT Thanks for choosing Geeetech, we strive to provide a satisfied and pleasant shopping experience for you, but we do understand there may be some questions you may encounter in using our product. If so, you can contact us directly or post on our forum, our technique staff will help you resolve it. Page 1 Geeetech Prusa I3 pro W User Manual.; Page 2: Safety Instructions Safety Instructions Building the printer will require a certain amount of physical dexterity, common sense and a thorough understanding of what you are doing. 2 ShenzhenGETECHCO.,LTD GEEETECH Preparation 1.Unpackthekitandcheckifallpartsareintheboxandchecktheconditionofeach part, there might be some damage during shipping. Geeetech Prusa I3 pro W. Safety Instructions. Building the printer will require a certain amount of physical dexterity, common sense and a.
3. Enhanced stability and reliability. Geeetech I3 pro B adopts 8 mm-thick acyclic plates, also you can choose the piano-black one and the transparent one, and both colors look good.
4. The PSU (power supply unit) is assembled together with the printer; which saves you a lot of space and can avoid unnecessary electrical trouble.
5. All the cables and wires are well arranged to make it more neat and easy to operate.
6. MK8 extruder ensures smaller layers and higher resolution, make models and objects.General Tips & Tricks for printing with Flexible and wood
Printing specifications
Print technology: Fused Filament Fabrication
Build volume: 200 x200x180mm
Layer resolution: 0.1-0.3mm
Positioning Precision: 0.1-0.3mm
Filament diameter: 1.75mm, 3mm
Nozzle diameter: 0.3mm, 0.35mm, 0.4 mm, 0.5mm
Filament type: ABS/ PLA/Flexible PLA/ Wood /Nylon
Software:
Operating system: Windows/Mac/Linux
Control software: Repetier-Host, Printrun
File format: .STL. G-code
Temperature:
Max heated bed temperature: about 110°C
Max extruder temperature: about 240°C
Electrical:
Power supply: Input:
115V/1.5A 230V/0.75A
Output:DC12V/0-15A
Connectivity: USB, SD card (support off-line printing)
Mechanical:
Body: Acrylic plate of 8 mm thickness (black/ transparent)
Build Platform: Borosilicate glass + MK2A heatbed
XYZ Rods: Wear-resistant, stainless steel
Stepper Motors: 1.8° step angle with 1/16 micro-stepping
Physical structure: Reprap
Physical dimensions:
Without spool: 45 x 44 x 44 cm
With spool: 45 x 44 x 68 cm
Shipping box: 52 x 42 x 23 cm
Net weight: 8. 5 kg
We recommend the following practice instructions for the safe and effective use of our printers. Failure to follow these practice instructions may (i) degrade your printer’s performance;
(ii) cause injury and/or damage;
(iii) disqualify you from customer support. Please ensure that you have read and understand all practice instructions before using your Prusa I3 printer for the first time.
You can contact the Prusa I3 Customer Support Team with any questions about the practice instructions at our [forum].
Operation
- Never reach inside your Prusa I3 printer when it is turned on. Moving parts can cut or pinch you, and several parts reach high temperatures that can cause burns and other injuries.
- Always allow your Prusa I3 printer to cool down for at least 5 minutes before you touch any internal part or remove a printed object.
- Never leave your Prusa I3 printer unattended while printing or powered on.
- Always turn off your Prusa I3 printer and disconnect it from your computer when not in use.
- Never attempt to print using any materials that have not been approved by Prusa I3.
- Keep the nozzle tip at least two inches away from the heated build platform anytime you are not running a print job.
- Never operate your Prusa I3 printer if it appears damaged.
- In case of an emergency or malfunction, immediately disconnect your Prusa I3 printer from the power outlet and computer.
Placement
- Always operate your Prusa I3 printer in an open, well-ventilated area to allow potentially irritating fumes to dissipate.
- Never operate your Prusa I3 printer outdoors, near open windows, or anywhere where it may be exposed to water or moisture.
- Always place your Prusa I3 printer on a flat and sturdy surface to avoid power interruptions and deformities in your prints.
- Never place objects on or above your Prusa I3 printer or power supply.
- Always have a working fire and smoke alarm in the same room as your Prusa I3 printer.
- Never place your Prusa I3 printer near open flames, heat sources, or flammable materials.
Connectivity
To avoid printing interruptions, disable your screensaver, sleep, and hibernate functions on your computer.
- Make sure the heating plate and extruder are not heated when starting software.
Power
- Plug your computer and Prusa I3 printer into the same power outlet for best performance.
- We recommend plugging your Prusa I3 printer into a surge protector with a circuit breaker.
Never attempt to open or fix your power supply. If you believe your power supply is not working properly, contact us asap.
- Only use the power supply that was provided with your Prusa I3 printer.
- Do not plug your Prusa I3 printer into the same outlet as power hungry devices such as air conditioners, space heaters, or other large appliances.
Modifications
Prusa I3 printers are tested for performance and safety before they leave the factory. Prusa I3 cannot guarantee the performance or safety of printers that have been modified by users.
Warnings
- THERE IS A RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK. UNIT IS NOT USER SERVICEABLE.
- Prusa I3 PRINTERS CONTAIN HEATED MOVING PARTS. NEVER REACH INSIDE THE PRINTER WHILE IT IS IN OPERATION OR BEFORE IT HAS COOLED DOWN.
- NEVER LEAVE YOUR Prusa I3 PRINTER UNATTENDED WHILE POWERED ON OR PRINTING.
- DISCONNECT YOUR Prusa I3 PRINTER FROM THE POWER SUPPLY AND COMPUTER WHEN NOT IN USE.
- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PRINT MATERIALS NOT APPROVED BY Prusa I3.
- ONLY OPERATE YOUR Prusa I3 PRINTER IN A WELL-VENTILATED SPACE AWAY FROM MOISTURE AND HEAT SOURCES WITH A WORKING SMOKE/FIRE ALARM.
Filament:1. The melting temperature is different for different type of filament; please refer to the suggested temperature you are using. The guideline for an optimal printing temperature is at approximately 210°C for flexible and 230°C for wood filament. The recommended heated bed temperature varies between ± 60˚C and ± 100˚C.
2. It is recommended to significantly lower your printing speed (compared to printing with PLA, or ABS) when printing with Flexible filament and wood filament.Specifications
please refer here for more detaied introduction.
Install the drivers
Installing Drivers
Before printing, you’ll need to install drivers. The kind of driver that a Prusa I3 requires in order to operate properly is called a USB Serial Driver. A USB Serial Driver is software that establishes a COM port.
Plug the USB into a USB port on your computer. Windows Update should automatically find and install the drivers. You’re done with installing the drivers!
Windows 8
When you attempt to install the unsigned 3rd party driver on Windows 8, you will most likely not be able to install because the file is not digitally signed. To get around this restriction, you must temporarily remove this restriction by following the instructions here .
Once you have followed the directions to disable driver signature enforcement, download the driver and click to install. This is only a temporary change, however, and restarting your computer after you have installed the driver will return your computer to its normal state.
Note that this involves restarting your computer, so make sure to close out all other windows. You may want to print out these instructions so you can refer to them while your computer is restarting.
Windows Manual Install
Note: In some cases the drivers will not install on their own. The drivers for Windows can be found in the following link:
If the driver was not automatically installed, you may see this screen:
In this case,a. Click “Change Settings…”
b. Select “Install driver software from Windows Update”.
c. Click “Save Changes”. The FTDI drivers should now install successfully.
Attention: For those having difficulty selecting your COM port
If you have installed the USB serial driver successfully and you are still not able to connenct to your printer in Repetier Host, then windows has not recognized the newly installed driver.In Repetier Host, you may even notice an error message that is similar to this one:
Serial com error:System.IO.Ports.SerialErrorReceivedEventArgs
In some situations, a computer running windows will not automatically recognize a newly installed Serial driver. This means that you will have to update your newly installed driver manually.
To manually update the driver, you will first need to plug the USB cable into your printer and attache the other end directly to one of your computer’s USB ports. Now, enter the ‘Device Manager’ in Windows and navigate to the hardware category called Ports (COM & LPT) and then left click on it once. You should notice the Ports category expand to reveal a Sub-Category called USB Serial (Communication Class, Abstract Control Model) (COM X); where X is the COM port number. You should be looking for that COM port number in Repetier Host after this procedure is completed; which can be found in “Printer Settings.”
You will need to right click on the USB Serial Sub-class and select proprties. In the drivers tab you will find a selection to update drivers, click on Update Drivers to access the next menu.
Now that you have selected which driver to update, you will have to tell Windows where the “updated” driver can be found. You should be presented with two options. Select “Browse my computer for driver software” to locate and install the driver software manually.
Next, you will be greeted by a menu that allows you to “Browse for driver software on your computer” You will be presented with two choices, select “Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer.” Now select the Serial port device and proceed with the installation.
That is pretty much all there is to it. You will then see an installation indicator bar.
Once the installation is complete you will be notified that “Windows has successfully updated your driver software.” You will be prompted to restart your computer; you should do so.
Macbook
Download link of driver: http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
Download the driver that is compatible with system version.
Open the downloaded file, you will see a .pkg file, Open 'FTDIUSBSerial.pkg'
Click 'Continue' in Instruction.
Click 'Continue' in Read me.
Click 'Continue' in License.
Click 'Agree' to continue installation.
Select the installing destination and click 'Continue'.
Click 'Install' in Installatin Type.
Mac will start to install the driver:
Once your computer restarts, try selecting the appropriate COM port and baud rate in Repetier Host and then connect.
Install Software
we will take windows OS as an example.
To install all required software by Prusa I3, please follow the steps provided below.
1) Download and install: RepetierGEtechSetup.exe
step 1,start the installer,choose the display language.step 2,click next to continue
step3,select the destination where you would like to install the RepetierGEtechSetup.
step4,select start menu folder and create a shortcut, click next to continue.
step 5,get ready to install. Click install.
step 6,wait about half a minute while installing. The green bar will show you the rate.
Haynes workshop manual. Most PCs, Macs, etc have their own built-in ZIP ExtractorRAR. You can find instructions on what to do.ISO. You can find instructions on what to do.ZIP.
step 7,set up has finished the installing, you can choose to launch it immediately or exit out.
2) Plug the power cord into a wall outlet and the USB cable into a USB port on your computer. Windows should detect your motherboard and assign the appropriate driver.
3) Open Repetier Host and Connect to your Prusa I3!
Click on the Manual Controls Tab and click in a direction X or Y to test your connection.If you are having difficulty connecting, please review the following supportive documentation: Installing Drivers and How to connect.
Please note that if you have difficulty connecting, there might have been an issue with the installation process. Ensure that the following have been installed:
Download and install the Serial Driver.
Download and install Microsoft .netFrameWork 3.5
In Mac, you can download Repetier for Mac' at:
-
- http://www.repetier.com/w/?wpdmdl=1777
After downloading, open 'Repetier-Host-Mac_56.dmg',then you will see the icon of 'Repetier Host', open it.
How To set up
NEW TO 3D PRINTINGHow to Connect1. Plug the USB into your Prusa I3 and the other end into your computer.
Do not be alarmed if the standard messages do not appear. Because of the Prusa I3’s drivers, it may show up as a generic USB device.
2. Power on the Prusa I3. You can see the LED lights and fan come to life! You may be able to hear the motors idling. 3. Open Repetier Host and ensure that you have a valid port selected for communications. To do this simply, click “Printer Settings” in the upper right-hand corner to bring up the printer settings menu.
4, Select GEEEtech PI3A in “Printer”
5. Select the corresponding COM port, click OK to continue.
If you can not fond the COM port, click “refresh ports” and see if it appears. (It is usually the last one; you can check the device manager to see which port it is). PS: if you still cannot find the port, please reinstall your USB driver.
In Mac, you should finish step 5 in 'Printer>Printer settings', step 4 is unnecessary
6. Hit 'connect' in the upper left-hand corner, select GEEEtech PI3A. You should see the details of the connection in the console window in the bottom section of the screen.
If it turned green, it is connected.
7. On the right panel, click the 'Manual Control' tab. Scroll down and click both heat extruder and heat print bed buttons to activate your heaters. You will know they are on if they turn a bright blue.
The heat will gradually rise, as you will see from the status bar on the bottom of the window. The extruder should be set to 195° and the bed should be set to 95°.
8. At the same time, you can click the arrows on the above panel to move the motors to check if they work well.
9. Click “load” to load the STL. File you need to print.
You can see now the model in the cubic box and on the right of the panel, you can see the loading bar.
10. After loading, choose “slicer” > “configure” to set the printing configurations. You may need to wait for a minute.
11. First, you need to set the layers and perimeters. As you can see in the following picture, all you need to set is the layer height and the first layer height. Leave the rest as default. (For each setting, you can get a prompt to refer)
12. Set the printing infill density and pattern. Refer to the prompt.
13. Set the printing speed. Again, refer to the prompt.
14. Filament setting. You just need to fill in the correct filament diameter.
15. After setting, do not forget to save the settings and name each setting.
16. Select the settings you save on the right panel. Then click the “Slice with slice3r”to generate G- code. You may have to wait for a while.
17 click slicer button and slice with Slic3r.
You can see the small window on the screen, the duration for the generation of G-code depends on the size of your file. It may take 1-2 minutes.
After that, you can see the code in G-code editor.There are two parameters deserves your attention. One is the bed temperature, another is the extruder temperature.
- Here is a temp reference.
if you are not familiar with Slic3r, you can read this Manual to start.
Leveling The Print Bed
Getting the bed level in relation to the X and Y axis is very important for getting prints to stick well and is one of the first steps you should do when receiving your Delta . The first layer might have the right amount of squish in one area, but if another part of the bed is too low, that part of the print is more likely to come unstuck and begin to warp. The level is adjusted with the spring loaded screws, two at the front and one at the back. If you are using the standard kapton tape on the build platform and not a sheet of glass, you will need to poke holes in the tape in order to turn the leveling screws or print some thumbscrews and use a little super glue to screw them onto the bottom of the leveling screws. We suggest using the thumbscrew route so that you do not have to damage your kapton tape.
Leveling the bed with a piece of paper
You can check the level of the heated platform by using a piece of paper to check the gap under the nozzle. It’s best to do this with the platform heated to account for any change due to expansion.
Put the paper under the nozzle near one of the front screws and raise the bed .1mm at a time using the manual controls in the software interface while sliding the paper back and forth. Stop when you feel the nozzle start to grab a little bit.
Move the nozzle to the other front screw and adjust the screw until you get the same amount of friction as you felt with the first one. Then adjust the back screw the same way. Once you have adjusted each of the three screws, go back and check each one again, since adjusting one screw can affect another. You shouldn’t need to go around the bed more than twice.
Leveling the bed with a dial indicator
The best way to level the bed is with a dial indicator. This uses a spring loaded plunger to detect changes in distance. You can mount one the the front of the extruder, and zero the reading at one corner of the bed. The watch for the readout to change as you move it around the bed and adjust the screws accordingly. If the fit is too loose for the tab on your gauge, you can use a few pieces of tape to thicken it up.
Belt Tensioning
There are 3 belts to be adjusted on your Prusa I3. These steps will guide you through adjusted them.
Tools:
2.5 mm hex driver
1.5 mm hex driver
Steps
1. As always, before trying to work on any part of your Prusa I3, make sure that both the bed and extruder are turned off to prevent burns. Lowering the bed will also keep it out of the way so that you can access all the necessary parts more easily.
2. To test the belts, you need to be able to move the belts. This requires the motors to be turned off. Go to the Manual Control tab in Repetier Host and click the stop motors button. You should now be able to move the extruder around without much resistance.
3. Pull the extruder forward and out of your way.
4. Using the 2.5 mm hex driver, loosen the four 4 screws on the left side of your printer. This will allow the Y motor to move up and down. Note that you do not need to completely remove these screws as there is no need to remove this motor from the printer.
5. Using your hand, lift the Y motor enough to take the short loop of belt off the pulley attached to the motor. This belt is the source of most trouble with printing circles. If this is the only belt you wish to adjust, you can skip to step 11.
6. Loosen the screws on the inside of the pulleys on the left and right end of the back horizontal rod using your 1.5 mm hex driver.Make sure the back horizontal rod is centered by feeling the bearings that hold it on either side of the printer. You want to make sure it is even.
7. Push the extruder back and forwards. This movement should naturally align the belts, so that the back rod should not be moving side to side. Download manual dengan idm.
8. Once the belts are aligned, you can tighten the pulleys again with the 1.5 mm hex driver. The screws should be tight enough to hold on to the rod, but be careful not to strip the screws.
9. Put the short loop of belt back on the Y motor pulley by again lifting the motor up.
10. Make sure the two pulleys that the short loop of belt is on are aligned. If they are not, you can loosen the screw on the pulley on the back rod and carefully nudge it into place. Once it is aligned with the pulley on the y motor, tighten the screw.
11. Push the Y motor down firmly to draw the belt taut, and tighten the screws on the left side of the printer one-by-one to hold the motor in place.
12. Check that you can move the extruder back and forth. It may be a little resistant.
13. Slide the extruder forward so you can check the tension of the bottom belts behind the y carriages. These belts should be not too tight but not too loose. The most important thing is that they are of roughly equal tension.
14. You can tighten or loosen the bottom belts by adjusting the screw on the back of the y carriages with a 2.5 mm hex driver.
15. Now slide the extruder back to check the tension of the bottom belts in front of the y carriages. Again, these belts should be not too tight and not too loose. Using a 2.5 mm hex driver on the screws on the front of the y carriages, adjust the belts so that they are of roughly equal tension.16. If the belts are still not moving smoothly, there may be a problem with the pulley alignment on the back horizontal rod. Using your 1.5 mm hex driver, loosen the screw on the pulleys so that you can move them into alignment, then tighten to hold them in place. This step can take some trial and error until you get everything properly aligned.
How to print off-line with GEEETECH I3
After leveling, you can print now, with an SD card, you are allowed to do off-line printing, here is a step by step instruction on how to set up for off-line printing:
Tip: It is recommended to use an SD card with the memory size less than 1G.
1.Open the software, and load the STL file to the slicer software, as shown below:
2. Click “Slice with Slic3r” under “Slicer” tab, as shown below:
3. The time for generating code depends on the size of model:
4. After generating the code of G-code, it will automatically skip to “G-code editor”, as shown the figure below:
5. Click “save job” to save G-code file into your SD card (Note: Do not put it into any folder)
6 Plug the SD card into the slot on the back of the LCD panel.
7 turn on your printer; wait for about 30 seconds you can hear the LCD panel light up and the fan and motors are activated.
8. After about 30 seconds, you can see the “Geeetech I3B is ready” on the LCD panel.
9. Now you can choose “ print from SD card”
10. Choose the G-code file you have saved in the card.
11, now you can see the heatbed is heating, the temperature is rising very quickly.
After the heatbed is heated to the rated temperature, the extruder will begin heating.
12. When you see “heating done”, the printer will begin printing immediately.
Slic3r Manual
This manual was written by Gary Hodgson.
Slic3r is a tool which translates digital 3D models into instructions that are understood by a 3D printer. It slices the model into horizontal layers and generates suitable paths to fill them.
Slic3r is already bundled with the many of the most well-known host software packages: Pronterface, Repetier-Host, ReplicatorG, and can be used as a standalone program.
This manual will provide guidance on how to install, configure and utilise Slic3r in order to produce excellent prints.
FAQs & SOLUTIONs
1.Fixing Extruder Jams and Flow Problems
2.How to unblock a nozzle
3.FAQs OF 3D printing
where to get
1. geeetech official oline store
Retrieved from 'http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Acrylic_Prusa_I3_pro_B&oldid=6362'
Here are my settings for configuration.h in arduino for my geeetech i3 if all you need is the steps here is that.
// This configuration file contains the basic settings.
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration
//
// DELTA Printer
//
// For a Delta printer rplace the configuration files wilth the files in the
// example_configurations/delta directory.
//
// DELTA Printer
//
// For a Delta printer rplace the configuration files wilth the files in the
// example_configurations/delta directory.
//
// User-specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during
// startup. Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made to this
// build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
// startup. Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made to this
// build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
// This determines the communication speed of the printer
//#define BAUDRATE 115200
// This enables the serial port associated to the Bluetooth interface
//#define BTENABLED // Enable BT interface on AT90USB devices
//#define BTENABLED // Enable BT interface on AT90USB devices
//// The following define selects which electronics board you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) 'https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics'
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 2 = Cheaptronic v1.0
// 20 = Sethi 3D_1
// 3 = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 35 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)
// 4 = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5 = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6 = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 64 = STB V1.1
// 65 = Azteeg X1
// 66 = Melzi with ATmega1284 (MaKr3d version)
// 67 = Azteeg X3
// 7 = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 77 = 3Drag Controller
// 8 = Teensylu
// 80 = Rumba
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 83 = SAV Mk-I (AT90USB1286)
// 9 = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 701= Megatronics v2.0
// 702= Minitronics v1.0
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301 = Rambo
// 21 = Elefu Ra Board (v3)
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) 'https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics'
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 2 = Cheaptronic v1.0
// 20 = Sethi 3D_1
// 3 = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 35 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)
// 4 = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5 = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6 = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 64 = STB V1.1
// 65 = Azteeg X1
// 66 = Melzi with ATmega1284 (MaKr3d version)
// 67 = Azteeg X3
// 7 = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 77 = 3Drag Controller
// 8 = Teensylu
// 80 = Rumba
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 83 = SAV Mk-I (AT90USB1286)
// 9 = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 701= Megatronics v2.0
// 702= Minitronics v1.0
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301 = Rambo
// 21 = Elefu Ra Board (v3)
// Define this to set a custom name for your generic Mendel,
// Define this to set a unique identifier for this printer, (Used by some programs to differentiate between machines)
// You can use an online service to generate a random UUID. (eg http://www.uuidgenerator.net/version4)
// #define MACHINE_UUID '00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000'
// You can use an online service to generate a random UUID. (eg http://www.uuidgenerator.net/version4)
// #define MACHINE_UUID '00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000'
// This defines the number of extruders
//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)
// Define this to have the electronics keep the powersupply off on startup. If you don't know what this is leave it.
// #define PS_DEFAULT_OFF
// #define PS_DEFAULT_OFF
//
// Delta Settings
//
// Enable DELTA kinematics and most of the default configuration for Deltas
//#define DELTA
// Delta Settings
//
// Enable DELTA kinematics and most of the default configuration for Deltas
//#define DELTA
// Make delta curves from many straight lines (linear interpolation).
// This is a trade-off between visible corners (not enough segments)
// and processor overload (too many expensive sqrt calls).
//#define DELTA_SEGMENTS_PER_SECOND 200
// This is a trade-off between visible corners (not enough segments)
// and processor overload (too many expensive sqrt calls).
//#define DELTA_SEGMENTS_PER_SECOND 200
// NOTE NB all values for DELTA_* values MOUST be floating point, so always have a decimal point in them
// Center-to-center distance of the holes in the diagonal push rods.
//#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 186.0 // mm
//#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 186.0 // mm
// Horizontal offset from middle of printer to smooth rod center.
//#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 158.4 // mm
//#define DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 158.4 // mm
// Horizontal offset of the universal joints on the end effector.
//#define DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET 33.0 // mm
//#define DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET 33.0 // mm
// Horizontal offset of the universal joints on the carriages.
//#define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 22.0 // mm
//#define DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 22.0 // mm
// Effective horizontal distance bridged by diagonal push rods.
//#define DELTA_RADIUS (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET)
//#define DELTA_RADIUS (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET)
//#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD_2 sq(DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD)
// Effective X/Y positions of the three vertical towers.
//#define SIN_60 0.8660254037844386
//#define COS_60 0.5
//#define DELTA_TOWER1_X -SIN_60DELTA_RADIUS // front left tower
//#define DELTA_TOWER1_Y -COS_60DELTA_RADIUS
//#define DELTA_TOWER2_X SIN_60DELTA_RADIUS // front right tower
//#define DELTA_TOWER2_Y -COS_60DELTA_RADIUS
//#define DELTA_TOWER3_X 0.0 // back middle tower
//#define DELTA_TOWER3_Y DELTA_RADIUS
//#define SIN_60 0.8660254037844386
//#define COS_60 0.5
//#define DELTA_TOWER1_X -SIN_60DELTA_RADIUS // front left tower
//#define DELTA_TOWER1_Y -COS_60DELTA_RADIUS
//#define DELTA_TOWER2_X SIN_60DELTA_RADIUS // front right tower
//#define DELTA_TOWER2_Y -COS_60DELTA_RADIUS
//#define DELTA_TOWER3_X 0.0 // back middle tower
//#define DELTA_TOWER3_Y DELTA_RADIUS
//
//Thermal Settings
//
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermister
//
// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)
//Thermal Settings
//
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermister
//
// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)
// This makes temp sensor 1 a redundant sensor for sensor 0. If the temperatures difference between these sensors is to high the print will be aborted.
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT
// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but NOT from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but NOT from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4
// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
//#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
//#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
//#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
// If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 114
// Ultimaker
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 114
// Makergear
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 12
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 12
// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 440
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 440
// Bed Temperature Control
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// Uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same frequency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you probably
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
//
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// Uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same frequency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you probably
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
//
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING
// This sets the max power delivered to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 255 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed. (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 255 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed. (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, aggressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, aggressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
// #define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
// #define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
// #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16
//from pidautotune
// #define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
// #define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
// #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16
// FIND YOUR OWN: 'M303 E-1 C8 S90' to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.
//
//Mechanical Settings
//
//Mechanical Settings
//
// Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics
// #define COREXY
// #define COREXY
// coarse Endstop Settings
// fine Enstop settings: Individual Pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
// Deltas never have min endstops
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
// Deltas never have min endstops
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS
// Disable max endstops for compatibility with endstop checking routine
// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
// Disables axis when it's not being used.
// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
// deltas always home to max
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
// deltas always home to max
// Travel limits after homing
// Bed Auto Leveling
//#define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING // Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line)
// these are the positions on the bed to do the probing
// these are the offsets to the prob relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
//If defined, the Probe servo will be turned on only during movement and then turned off to avoid jerk
//The value is the delay to turn the servo off after powered on - depends on the servo speed; 300ms is good value, but you can try lower it.
// You MUST HAVE the SERVO_ENDSTOPS defined to use here a value higher than zero otherwise your code will not compile.
//The value is the delay to turn the servo off after powered on - depends on the servo speed; 300ms is good value, but you can try lower it.
// You MUST HAVE the SERVO_ENDSTOPS defined to use here a value higher than zero otherwise your code will not compile.
// #define PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300
//If you have enabled the Bed Auto Levelling and are using the same Z Probe for Z Homing,
//it is highly recommended you let this Z_SAFE_HOMING enabled!!!
//it is highly recommended you let this Z_SAFE_HOMING enabled!!!
// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOMEPOSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)
//#define MANUAL_HOMEPOSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)
//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume.
//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 182 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.
//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
// delta homing speeds must be the same on xyz
// default settings
// delta speeds must be the same on xyz
// delta speeds must be the same on xyz
//#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.74, 78.74, 2560, 800}
// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis
// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
//
//Additional Features
//
//Additional Features
//
// EEPROM
// the microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity..
// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default 'factory settings'. You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable eeprom support
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT
// the microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity..
// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default 'factory settings'. You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable eeprom support
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT
// Preheat Constants
Geeetech Acrylic Prusa I3 Pro B User Manual Download
//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2
//#define DOGLCD // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define SDSLOW // Use slower SD transfer mode (not normally needed - uncomment if you're getting volume init error)
//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1 // Increase if you have a high resolution encoder
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5 // Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2
//#define DOGLCD // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define SDSLOW // Use slower SD transfer mode (not normally needed - uncomment if you're getting volume init error)
//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1 // Increase if you have a high resolution encoder
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5 // Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse
// The MaKr3d Makr-Panel with graphic controller and SD support
// http://reprap.org/wiki/MaKr3d_MaKrPanel
//#define MAKRPANEL
// http://reprap.org/wiki/MaKr3d_MaKrPanel
//#define MAKRPANEL
// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
// The GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller (blue PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.3/1.4_GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel
//#define G3D_PANEL
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.3/1.4_GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel
//#define G3D_PANEL
// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller
//
// > REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: http://code.google.com/p/u8glib/wiki/u8glib
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller
//
// > REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: http://code.google.com/p/u8glib/wiki/u8glib
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
// The RepRapWorld REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD v1.1
// http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=202&cPath=1591_1626
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 10.0 // how much should be moved when a key is pressed, eg 10.0 means 10mm per click
// http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=202&cPath=1591_1626
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 10.0 // how much should be moved when a key is pressed, eg 10.0 means 10mm per click
// The Elefu RA Board Control Panel
// http://www.elefu.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=53
// REMEMBER TO INSTALL LiquidCrystal_I2C.h in your ARUDINO library folder: https://github.com/kiyoshigawa/LiquidCrystal_I2C
//#define RA_CONTROL_PANEL
// http://www.elefu.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=53
// REMEMBER TO INSTALL LiquidCrystal_I2C.h in your ARUDINO library folder: https://github.com/kiyoshigawa/LiquidCrystal_I2C
//#define RA_CONTROL_PANEL
//automatic expansion
//I2C PANELS
//#define LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
// This uses the LiquidCrystal_I2C library ( https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrystal/wiki/Home )
// Make sure it is placed in the Arduino libraries directory.
// Make sure it is placed in the Arduino libraries directory.
// PANELOLU2 LCD with status LEDs, separate encoder and click inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
// This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( https://github.com/lincomatic/LiquidTWI2 )
// Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
// (v1.2.3 no longer requires you to define PANELOLU in the LiquidTWI2.h library header file)
// Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to a pin
// (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC -1).
// Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
// (v1.2.3 no longer requires you to define PANELOLU in the LiquidTWI2.h library header file)
// Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to a pin
// (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC -1).
// Panucatt VIKI LCD with status LEDs, integrated click & L/R/U/P buttons, separate encoder inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI
// This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( https://github.com/lincomatic/LiquidTWI2 )
// Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
// Note: The pause/stop/resume LCD button pin should be connected to the Arduino
// BTN_ENC pin (or set BTN_ENC to -1 if not used)
// Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
// Note: The pause/stop/resume LCD button pin should be connected to the Arduino
// BTN_ENC pin (or set BTN_ENC to -1 if not used)
// Shift register panels
// ---------------------
// 2 wire Non-latching LCD SR from:
// https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrystal/wiki/schematics#!shiftregister-connection
//#define SR_LCD
// ---------------------
// 2 wire Non-latching LCD SR from:
// https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrystal/wiki/schematics#!shiftregister-connection
//#define SR_LCD
//#define NEWPANEL
Geeetech Acrylic Prusa I3 Pro B Instructions
// #define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
// default LCD contrast for dogm-like LCD displays
// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN
// Temperature status leds that display the hotend and bet temperature.
// If alle hotends and bed temperature and temperature setpoint are < 54C then the BLUE led is on.
// Otherwise the RED led is on. There is 1C hysteresis.
//#define TEMP_STAT_LEDS
// If alle hotends and bed temperature and temperature setpoint are < 54C then the BLUE led is on.
// Otherwise the RED led is on. There is 1C hysteresis.
//#define TEMP_STAT_LEDS
// Use software PWM to drive the fan, as for the heaters. This uses a very low frequency
// which is not ass annoying as with the hardware PWM. On the other hand, if this frequency
// is too low, you should also increment SOFT_PWM_SCALE.
//#define FAN_SOFT_PWM
// which is not ass annoying as with the hardware PWM. On the other hand, if this frequency
// is too low, you should also increment SOFT_PWM_SCALE.
//#define FAN_SOFT_PWM
// Incrementing this by 1 will double the software PWM frequency,
// affecting heaters, and the fan if FAN_SOFT_PWM is enabled.
// However, control resolution will be halved for each increment;
// at zero value, there are 128 effective control positions.
// affecting heaters, and the fan if FAN_SOFT_PWM is enabled.
// However, control resolution will be halved for each increment;
// at zero value, there are 128 effective control positions.
// M240 Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/rc-1_hacked/
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN 23
// Data from: http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/rc-1_hacked/
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN 23
// SF send wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX
//#define SF_ARC_FIX
// Support for the BariCUDA Paste Extruder.
//#define BARICUDA
//#define BARICUDA
//define BlinkM/CyzRgb Support
//#define BLINKM
//#define BLINKM
/*****
- R/C SERVO support
- Sponsored by TrinityLabs, Reworked by codexmas
**/
// Number of servos
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command
// Servo Endstops
//
// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.
// Use M206 command to correct for switch height offset to actual nozzle height. Store that setting with M500.
//
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 70,0} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles
//
// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.
// Use M206 command to correct for switch height offset to actual nozzle height. Store that setting with M500.
//
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 70,0} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles